Renesanso kostiumas Lietuvoje (XVI a. pirmoji pusė)

LTRenesanso estetika teigia, kad išorė yra žmogaus vidaus atspindys. Todėl kostiumas - dar ir žmogaus charakterio užšifruotas ženklas, jo individualybės pasireiškimo sfera, jo skonio, fantazijos, dvasinės būsenos išraiška. Tačiau kita vertus, kiekvienas laikas sukuria savus etalonus, taisykles, stilių, madą, kurios ribų jam nevalia peržengti, ir šios bendros taisyklės nulemia epochos veidą. [p. 300].

ENThe Renaissance epoch was the period when the West-European type of costume reached the Great Duchy of Lithuania. The process especially influenced the high society of that time, its elite. Matrimonial relations of the noblemen, the need of culture westernisation preconditioned the fact that Italian, Austrian and Spanish style fashions became dominant in the court of the Jogailaities. The iconography which is primarily concerned with individual and unique features allows to see the way of life of the noblemen and their closest people. Besides, shaube, sajans and kabats are indicated in the descriptions of other noblemen’s inventories. Cultural interchange also involved the merchants who introduced goods of foreign countries into the market of Lithuania. Besides, carriers of new fashions were foreign craftsmen who invited by the great dukes brought to Lithuania their fashions and traditions. Starting with the 16th century, the foreign army also become the propagator of foreign fashions. Being influenced by all these factors, Lithuania was involved into breaking the gothic traditions and changing them into the Renaissance ideals. In such a way the Lithuanian ethnocultural area was enriched by the cultural factor characteristic of the whole Europe, which gave an incentive to Lithuania’s integration into Europe.