Nuo archeologinio radinio iki eksponato: XVI–XVII a. I pusės moterų galvos apdangalai Lietuvos nacionalinio muziejaus rinkiniuose

LTLietuvos nacionalinio muziejaus (toliau LNM) Viduramžių ir naujųjų laikų archeologijos rinkinių skyriuje saugomi du unikalūs XVI– XVII a. I pusės moterų galvos apdangalai – kepurėlė ir plaukų tinklelis, rasti archeologinių tyrimų metu moterų kapuose Vilniaus Švč. Mergelės Marijos Ėmimo į dangų (pranciškonų konventualų) (1997 m. tyrimams vadovavo Andrius Vaicekauskas) ir Trakų Švč. Mergelės Marijos Apsilankymo (2008 m. tyrimams vadovavo Olegas Fediajevas) bažnyčiose. Šie eksponatai atspindi Lietuvos Didžiosios Kunigaikštystės kilmingų moterų madas, perimtas iš Vakarų Europos. Straipsnyje aptariamos kepurėlės iškart po archeologinių tyrimų pateko į restauravimo laboratorijas. Tyrimų ir restauravimo metu buvo nustatyta, iš kokių medžiagų šie radiniai pagaminti, rekonstruota jų forma, vaizdas bei galimas nešiojimo būdas. Straipsnis trumpai supažindina su konservavimo-restauravimo metu vykdomais procesais bei potencialu naujai informacijai apie radinį atskleisti. Reikšminiai žodžiai: archeologija, Renesansas, moteriškas galvos apdangalas, kepurėlė, plaukų tinklelis, pinikas. [Iš leidinio]

ENThe museologists clearly distinguish between the archaeological find and the exhibit. Not every find becomes an exhibit, and before it becomes one, it has to go a long way, invisible to museum visitors. One of the most important stops on this road is the restorers’ laboratory, where it is determined what and how the find was made and, as far as possible, the original appearance of the find is restored. Unfortunately, the information found during restoration is often published only in the literature for restoration specialists, does not always reach the wider scientific circulation and does not reach a wider audience. These discoveries are especially important when exploring rare objects that we know more about from iconographic sources. One such object is woman’s headgear of the Renaissance period. The headgear was an important part of the costume for both men and women during the Renaissance, which was matched not only with clothing but also with fashionable hairstyles. The Department of Medieval and Modern Archaeology at National Museum of Lithuania houses two unique women’s headgears – a hat and hairnet of the 1st half of the 16th – 17th centuries – found during archaeological excavations in women’s graves that have been restored in the museum’s Restoration Centre. The hats discussed in the article entered the restoration laboratories immediately after the archaeological research. During the research and restoration, it was determined from which materials these finds were made, their shape, image and possible way of wearing were reconstructed. The article briefly introduces the processes carried out during conservation- restoration and the potential to reveal new information about the find.During the research of the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Vilnius in 1997 (research was led by Andrius Vaicekauskas) in the discovered grave No. 53 of the 1st half of the 16th c. a woman was buried with a hat. The hat consists of two parts: an openwork ruffle and a velvet ribbon. The openwork ruffle of the hat, which is 22 cm. wide and 36 cm. long, is tied from silk thread with a rhombus motif arranged in diagonal stripes. A silk ribbon is sewn to its edges: 1 cm wide on the sides of the ruffle and 3 cm. wide on the back. A cord braided from silk thread is sewn to the edges of the silk ribbon, from which 36 loops are formed every 1.5 cm. to pierce the cord for tightening and tying the edges of the hat. The other part of the hat is a velvet band 43 cm long and 5.1 cm wide, which surrounds the entire ruffle.The hairnet dating back to the 1st half of the 17th c. was found during the renovation of the Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Trakai while conducting archaeological research in 2008 (research leader O. Fediajevas) in woman’s grave No. B54. The deceased was buried with a relatively well-preserved silk hairnet adorned with gilded tin pieces of copper alloy. The hairnet is 27x33 cm. It is made using a knitting net technique from double silk threads tightened with a knot. The net is weaved from the back part, with three sizes of holes that form a repeating ornament. On the back, two quadruple threads form a fringe and nine loops to tighten the hat and adjust its size. The restored exhibits reflect the headgear of the highest class of women of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania and their fashion, taken over from the countries of Western Europe. Close collaboration among archaeologists, restorers, and historical costume researchers is helpful in explaining the history, wear, construction, and so on of the find. This new information not only complements inventory descriptions of exhibits or scientific articles but also tells new stories to museum visitors. [From the publication]