Kūnas šiuolaikinėje juvelyrikoje

ENThe development of contemporary jewelry is designated by the dynamics in the shift as far as the relationship between the adornment and the body is concerned. The traditional adornment with its moderate forms has been adjusted to wearing it over the body, whereas the conventions regarding the making and wearing of jewelry is virtually questioned by modern works of jewelry. Diverse alternative cheap materials are used for creating adornments and their extravagant forms are frequent, and neglect the proportions of the human body. On the ground of the new ways of expression of contemporary art the adornment could be replaced merely by its photograph or by the video projection being demonstrated on the body. On the other hand, the increasing number of aggressive elements in the forms of contemporary adornments is noticed — these are diverse pointed details capable of hurting the body in either way. In modern works of art the loss of the harmonious relationship between the adornment and the body has been influenced by the conceptual art and the spread of the body art ideas, in particular.The essentially altered relationship between a human being and the setting with things around him at the end of the twentieth century is also reflected by this. The things (adornments) make their aggressive forms, thus creating a conflicting medium around us and among us, and a particular tension between a person and the world is also reflected. The altered relationship between the modern works of jewelry and the body is noted by almost all the foreign authors who had consecutively investigated the process of the development of contemporary jewelry. Whereas this urgent discourse is completely untouched with us (modern jewelry as the field of applied arts is hardly understudy in Lithuania). In the article the author on the ground of the most characteristic examples in the creation of foreign painters points out not only the most important changes concerning the relationship between the adornment and the body but also, for the first time, is trying to reveal how the altered attitude (though being not so radical as that in the creation of foreign authors) toward the body is reflected by the works of jewelry of Lithuanian authors.