Lietuvininkų ir žemaičių vyriški tautiniai drabužiai
LTStraipsnyje aptariama XIX a.–XX a. pr. vakarų Lietuvos vyriški tautiniai drabužiai, jų gamyba ir dėvėsena. Lietuvių tradicinio tautinio kostiumo pagrindą sudaro pasiturinčio valstiečio šventiniai drabužiai. Remiantis ikonografine ir rašytine medžiaga lyginamas lietuvininko ir žemaičio kostiumas. Vyriški kostiumai neturėjo tiek daug regioninių skirtumų kaip moteriški, jie nėra labai spalvingi. Pagrindiniai vyriško kostiumo spalviniai akcentai: galvos dangos papuošalai, susijuosimo priemonės, kaklo ir avalynės raiščiai. Sprendžiant šiandienines tautinio kostiumo gamybos ir dėvėsenos problemas, būtina remtis istorine medžiaga, konsultuotis su specialistais, kad išvengtume dažnai pasitaikančių grubių klaidų.
ENThe men's national clothes are not much discussed about, though the need for national dress remains. At present there are many folklore groups in Lithuania. People dressed in national clothes take part in State ceremonies and festivals, in the official State presentations. In order to avoid frequent mistakes in making and wearing the national clothes, it would be necessary to review the historical and iconographic materials and apply this knowledge to the nowdays life. The men's suit in Lithuania Minor and Žemaitija at the end of 19th–the beginning of 20th cartury included shirt, trousers, bodices, sermėgą or jackets, felt cap or hat, high boots. The shirt was made of fine white linen cloth, tunic-type cut. Until the 19th century men in Lithuanian village wore not-decorated shirt because it was invisible under the outdoor clothes and the collar with the breast were covered by the neck-kerchief. In West Lithuania the holiday shirt w as thrusted into the throusers. Home-made wool, semiwool or linen cloth used for the throusers. The knickerbockers and loafers are found only in Lithuania Minor. The knickerbockers were one-colour whereas longthrousers were motley. The throusers in Žemaitija were long, not wide. The throusers in national suit shoud be worn without kantas. The bodices of the national suit are short (8–10 cm below waist), motley-coloured with shallow decollete, worn under sermėga or jacket.The neck-kerchief is a small ime smart kerchief worn on the neck. It covered undecorated collar and filled out the decollete of the bodices. Since 18th century sermėga had been the main men's outdoor clothes. It was a prototype of a coat. The colours of the sermėga and jackets were white, grey, dark blue. Pressed and uniform clothing gave to the Lietuvininkai military appearance. Lietuvininkai used yellow leather belts. light-blue or green sashes, as well as embroidered fabric belts. The colours of Žemaičiai outdoor clothes were grey, brown, white, green, black. Žemaičiai girded their waists w ith selected sashes, leather belts. Žemaičiai, as well as Lietuvininkai wore similar felt caps and hats of dark natural colours but their adornments were different: Žemaičiai used to adorn their heads with the peacock's feathers stuck behind the bands while Lietuvininkai with the selected sashes and flowers. However, men's national clothes are not very colourful. The most colourful decorations of the men's suit were head dress adornments, neck-kerchiefs, sashes and bands of the foot-wear. While desinging and producing the national clothes pmch move atention should be paid not only to the fashion but also to the colour combinations of the national men's clothes. Flared coloured bodices ought to be matched to the flared motley-coloured throusers, on the other hand, coloured throusers – to the one-colour bodices. The bodices should become apparent in the background of the one-colour sermėga. It would be useful to be bolder and more inventive combining the Hared motley-coloured neck-kerchiefs and adorning the headdress.
