Žemaičių ripsinių lovatiesių raštų struktūra
LTAudinio ornamentas kuriamas, perduodamas ir perimamas iš kartos į kartą. Tai tekstilės meninė išraiška, rodanti jos kūrėjų estetinį skonį ir pasaulėjautą. Keičiantis kartoms, šiek tiek keičiasi ir ornamentas. Lietuvoje dar nenagrinėta problema, kaip ši kaita vyksta konkrečioje vietovėje, kas ją lemia. Straipsnyje analizuojami XIX-XX a. žemaičių ripsinių lovatiesių raštai. [p. 121].
ENWoven ornaments are created, transferred and adopted from generation to gene- ration. The question is how does this process occur in a particular locality and what is it conditioned by? The analysis of the ornament structure of Samogitian woven rep bedspreads of the 19th-20th centuries has been presented in this paper. Theoretical statements on the method of the analysis were given in my report at the conference held by the Institute of Lithuanian History in 1992 Ethnic Territorial Identity and World Attitude. The materials of the above-mentioned conference are due to be published. On the basis of a certain method the peculiarities of reps bedspreads as well as the originality of their creation and prevalence have been described, on the ground of which further investigations of bedspread ornamentation are being carried out. The review of Lithuanian historiography about Samogitian rep weaving is succeeded by the description of the variety and singularity of rep weave. On the basis of authentic ornaments the analysis of striped, checked, striped-checked ornamentation of the bedspread edges and their graphic and colour structure is given. An analogous analysis of bedspread middle ornamentation had been made earlier. Investigations into the relation of ornament graphic forms and colour quantity point out the most typical structures of ornaments. The edges of all bedspreads are mostly multicolour combinations of elements of several sizes. Striped and striped-checked weaves have peculiar multicolour ornaments of diverse elements. For checked weaves the elements of three sizes or one and three colours or one are used.Ornament spreading has been analysed according to the data of the late 19th- middle of the 20th centuries. The spread of the ornament structures in Lithuania is given in the map schemes. There is tendency observed that with time passing some elements of striped and striped-checked ornaments the number of structures of simple elements increase and checked ornaments acquire more diverse elements. The edges of bedspreads are usually woven in the 20th century, they are made of plain combinations. As exceptions there are some multicoloured edges of the present north part of the Plungė District, and the Skuodas District. In the 20th century new forms of elements of different sizes appear in striped and striped-checked ornaments. The changes occur not in the colour structure itself but in colour combinations. In the second half of the 19th-beginning of the 20th centuries the traditional black, green and red colour combination prevailed, later supplemented with new colours. The analysis of the ornament structure reveals ornament peculiarities. Old ornaments are transformed in the new woven bedspreads. The ideas propagated through the weaving courses arranged by public and governmental agricultural institutions stimulated the wit of the weavers, as well as literature. Many innovations were taken from abroad but the structure of geometrical ornaments and colours maintain their national uniqueness.
